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Bowie godet skirt: sewing instructions

Notes and tips​

Garment rise​

This skirt defaults to sitting at the natural waist. The waist drop option may be used to move the garment waistline down toward the hips.

Waist ease​

Bowie was designed for stretchy fabric, so the defaults take some from the waist measurement to allow the skirt to stay up. If a stiffer fabric is chosen, the extra waist ease will need adjusting.

Darts​

Darts are used to compensate for the difference between the waist and ease added for comfort and shaping. The darts in this pattern default to closed, stretching the bottom of the waistband portion to compensate. For stiff fabrics, the darts may need to be reopened in the options.

Knits and sergers​

As with any knitwear or stretchy fabric, a serger/overlock machine will make assembly easier. However, it is not a requirement and the seams may be sewn with a short zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine.

Construction​

Step 0: Darts​

  • Sew all the darts if present
  • Press the darts towards the back.
    • For the back piece, that means you press the darts towards each other.
    • For the front piece, that means you press the darts towards the side seams.

Step 1: The Godets​

All seams are right sides together. Press and finish seams as desired.

There are two or three ways to attach the panels to the godets. Ultimately, it goes panel, godet, panel, godet, etc. They can be assembled in order going in a circle, one side at a time or one part on each side at a time.

One part at a time:​

  • Attach one front godet to each side of the front panel.
  • Attach one side front panel to the outside of each of the front godets.
  • Attach one side godet to the outside of each of the side front panels.
  • Attach one side back panel to the outside of each of the side godets.
  • Attach one back godet to the outside of each of the side back.panels
  • Attach the back godets to the outside of the back panel, closing the bottom of the skirt.

One side at a time​

  • Attach one front godet to the side of the front panel.

  • Attach one side front panel to the previously added front godet.

  • Attach a side godet.

  • Attach a side back panel.

    …

  • Repeat on the other side of the front panel

  • Sew the remaining back godet and back panel edges together.

Step 1.5 The Lining (optional)​

  • Repeat step 1 with the lining/inside pieces if using a full lining or making it reversible.
tip

Many of these parts are very similar depending on the measurements used. Mark each piece on the wrong side to keep track of them. It may also help to stack them in the order they’ll be attached.

Step 2: The Waistband: Part I​

  • Sew the sides of one of the front waistband and *back waistband pieces together.
  • Repeat with the other front waistband and back waistband pieces.
warning

If using a different closure (e.g., zipper), construct it during this step. If you prefer to insert the closure with the main and lining fabric as one, you will need to omit adding it until 3a or 4b.

note

Reversible/lined and regular instructions diverge from here. For a reversible/lined skirt go to step 3b.

Step 3a: The Waistband: Continued​

  • Sew the two waistband pieces together at the top, adding the elastic if used.
  • Turn the waistband right side out and press.
note

If inserting the closure with the main and lining fabric as one, construct it now.

Step 4a: The Last Seam​

  • With right sides together, align the waistband and skirt bottom so the tips of the side godets meet the side seams of the waistband.
  • Sew together the waistband and bottom portion of the skirt.
note

These can be attached all three layers at once, or like binding/ bias tape depending on preference.

Step 5a Finishing​

  • Press under the hem allowances of outside layer of the skirt.
  • Secure the hem in place as desired. E.g., sew from the outside or from the inside. This comes down to the desired look of the finished product.
  • Enjoy!
note

The remaining instructions are for the reversible/lined version.

Step 3b: Return of the Waistband​

  • With right sides together, align a waistband and skirt bottom so the tips of the side godets meet the side seams of the waistband.
  • Sew the waistband and bottom pieces together.
  • Repeat for remaining waistband and bottom parts.
  • Turn the inside layer of the skirt.

Step 4b Attaching the Inside to the Outside​

note

If inserting the closure with the main and lining fabric as one, construct it now.

  • With right sides together, sew along the top seam, adding elastic if desired.
  • Turn and press the top seam.

Step 5b:​

  • Press under the hem allowances of outside layer of the skirt.
  • Press in the inside/lining hem allowances. For a reversible skirt, this should be even with the outside. For a lined skirt, the lining should be slightly shorter than the outside; about the seam allowance width.
  • Secure the hem in place as desired. E.g., sew from the outside or from the inside. This comes down to the desired look of the finished product.
  • Enjoy!