Paul: FreeSewing's Paul Pants
Designer Notes
Paul is a standard sewing pattern for jeans and other pants with a similar cut.
Paul is heavily based on the Charlie design and also uses Titan as a base. The main differences between Charlie and Paul are:
- Front pockets: Paul uses front pockets with a curved opening instead of integrating the pockets into the side seam.
- Back pockets: Paul uses patch pockets on the back instead of double welt pockets.
- Fly style: Paul defaults to a button fly as opposed to Charlie’s zipper fly.
- Back construction: Paul has a back yoke instead of darts.
- Gusset: Paul allows for a crotch gusset option.
- Waistband: Paul has a slightly higher waistband by default.
- Legs: Paul has tapered legs with a wider thigh and a smaller ankle circumference compared to charlie.
Other than that, both designs have pretty much the same construction, so if Charlie fits you well, Paul should work the same. At least if you use the same measurements and make the same adjustments.
Jonathan
What You Need
To make Paul, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of suitable fabric (see Fabric Options)
- About 40 centimeters (15 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
- Buttons (or a zipper) for the fly
- A button for the waistband
- Fusible interfacing (depending on fabric)
- A piece of strong cardboard to use as a pressing template for the back pocket
- Rivets and the necessary tool if you want to make jeans
- A hammer can be helpful
Fabric Options
Paul works well with tightly woven natural fabrics.
Denim is an obvious choice if you want to make jeans, but many other options exists, such as canvas, corduroy, chino, chambray or simply old sheets.
If you want to go for a more casual look, linen can also work great, but will be more challenging to work with.
Be careful with finer and sheer fabrics. You may need extra lining on the main pieces, otherwise the fabric may tear easily or be too see-through.
Avoid fabrics that can’t be ironed, that are very smooth, very stretchy or that won’t hold pleats.
Cutting Instructions
From main fabric
Some parts might be disabled depending on your selected design options, so skip these.
- Part 1: 2 Backs with good sides together
- Part 2: 2 Fronts with good sides together
- Part 3: 1 Waistband if making a straight waistband or 2 Waistbands with good sides together if making a curved waistband
- Part 4: 1 Belt loops
- Part 5: 2 Yokes with good sides together
- Part 6: 1 Fly facing
- Part 7: 1 Fly extension on the fold
- Part 8: 1 Gusset
- Part 9: 2 Back pockets with good sides together
- Part 10: 1 Fly placket on the fold
- Part 12: 2 Front pocket facing with good sides together
- Part 13: 2 Front pocket entry facing with good sides together
The front part on your right side has an extended outline near the fly. Trim this extension from the left side only after cutting both parts on the fold. Be careful to not trim the seam allowance.
The part with the extended outline is the one that looks like the pattern part when the good side is facing up.
Feel free to mirror the design if you are left-handed, or if you prefer the pants to open in the other direction for some other reason.
If you are making a curved waistband, double the seam allowance on the outer (longer) curve of one of the pieces. This piece will be on the inside.
From lining (or any material suitable for pocket bags)
- Part 11: 2 Pocket bags with good sides together
If your fabric is thin or has a light color, or if you just want to add extra weight, strength or insulation, you can also line the front, back, gusset and yokes.
You have multiple options:
- Line the individual parts and treat them together as a single piece before sewing or
- Create a mirrored copy of the pants from lining fabric (but without pockets), insert it inside out into your main pants and join them when sewing the waistband and hems.
The latter option has the advantage that all the seam allowances will be hidden between both layers, so the pants will be extra sensory friendly.
From cardboard
- Part 9: 1 Back pocket without seam allowance as a template for ironing
From fusible interfacing
If you want to interface the fly, cut just once and not on the fold:
- Part 7: 1 Fly extension
- Part 10: 1 Fly placket