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Paul pants: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Buttons​

Controls the number of buttons in the fly

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 1
  • Maximum: 5

This option lets you set the number of buttons inside the fly, not counting the button on the waistband.

Depending on how high your waist and how is, and how far your fly goes downwards, you may want to use more or less buttons.

Note that the button positions are just drawn on the pattern as a suggestion. Feel free to choose their final count and position once you’ve constructed the fly.

Front pocket facing​

Enables facing the front pocket

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Enables or disables the pocket facing.

The pocket facing sits above the back of the front pockets and ensures you normally don’t see the pocket material from the outside.

On regular jeans, the pocket facing is the denim material on the inside and above the front pockets.

Front pocket entry facing​

Enables facing the front pocket entry

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Enables or disables the pocket entry facing.

The pocket entry facing is a thin strip of fabric on the top inside edge of the front pockets.

It adds stability to the front pockets and ensures that no pocket material is visible on the seam.

Pocket curve shape​

Controls the curve of the front pocket opening

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls how tight the curve on the pocket opening is.

Larger values create a more smooth opening, smaller values a lower, sharper opening.

Pocket depth​

Controls the amount of room in your pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 42%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 48%

This option controls how deep the pockets are.

Pocket opening height​

How high the opening of the front pockets should be

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the height of the front pocket opening.

Pocket opening width​

How wide the opening of the front pockets should be

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 90%

This option controls the width of the front pocket opening.

Gusset balance​

Controls how much of the front part is cut off to construct the gusset

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 250%
  • Minimum: 100%
  • Maximum: 400%

The gusset is constructed by removing a triangular shape from the front and back part of the pants and joining them to a new part that forms the gusset.

This option controls if we should remove the same are from both parts, or if we should remove more from the back part.

The default is removing more from the back part, since the back part is usually larger. Cutting the gusset too far from the front could be visible.

Gusset size​

Controls the size of the gusset

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 40%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 60%

This option controls the size of the gusset as a percentage of the distance between the bottom of the fly and the fork.

Bigger gussets have a larger effect, but could be more visible.

Gusset width​

Controls the width of the gusset compared to its general size

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the width of the gusset without changing how far it goes down along the inseam.

Construction​

Back pockets​

If the pants should have back pockets

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

This option enables or disables the back pockets.

Belt loops​

Controls the amount of belt loops

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 0
  • Maximum: 9

This option lets you set the number of belt loops. Standard jeans often use five belt loops.

Fly style​

Controls the construction of the fly

  • Type: List
  • Default: buttons
  • options:
    • buttons
    • visibleButtons
    • zipper

Controls the style of the fly.

You can either do hidden buttons (the default), visible buttons, or a hidden zipper.

Front pockets​

If the pants should have front pockets

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Enable or disable the front pockets.

Disabling the front pockets makes sense if you want to design your own pockets or if you want to create a basic mockup for fit testing.

Gusset​

Controls if a crotch gusset should be constructed

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Enable or disable the crotch gusset.

A crotch gusset provides added comfort, durability, and flexibility by reducing stress at the seams and allowing for greater freedom of movement.

It can also reduce fabric usage, as the front and back pieces are narrower and more rectangular with the gusset enabled.

The main drawbacks are the need for an additional seam and a potential impact on the garment’s appearance.

Fit​

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  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

Adds extra room to your gusset for increased movement range.

Knee ease​

Controls the amount of ease at the knee

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 30%

Controls the amount of ease at your knees, which also determines the width of the trouser legs.

Seat ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: -5%
  • Maximum: 5%

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease at the top of your pants (the closure).

Waistband curve​

Controls how curved the waistband is

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls how curved the waistband is.

Increasing this will give a curvier waistband, making it smaller at the top edge of the waistband.

Style​

Ankle ease​

Ease at the ankle

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

This option controls the amount of ease at the ankle level. More ease results in wider legs.

Ankle shape​

Controls how fast the width of the pants increases above the ankle

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 75%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

This option controls how fast the width of the pants increases above the ankle.

Change this to create your preferred style or to make enough room for your lower legs.

Crotch drop​

Lowers the crotch for a more relaxed fit

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.

Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit. A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

Length​

Controls the length of the pants

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 100%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 120%

Controls the length of the legs. 100% length sets the inseam to your inseam measurement.

Reduce the length to turn the pants for example into 3/4 pants or shorts.

Use waistband angle for​

Apply the waistband angle to the front, back or both

  • Type: List
  • Default: both
  • options:
    • both
    • backOnly
    • frontOnly

Determines if the Waistband angle setting is applied to the back part, the front part or both.

Note that applying the setting to only one of the parts can create an angle at the sideseam.

Waistband angle​

Change the angle of the waistband when viewed from the side

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 0°
  • Minimum: -20°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of the waistband when the garment is viewed from the side.

Increasing this option will raise the back of the pants and lower the waistband in the front. This is ideal for those with a curvy body who want the waistband to sit below the belly in the front, but above the butt in the back.

If you’re setting the waistband angle to a larger value, it’s also a good idea to increase the waist height to make sure you’ve got enough coverage in the front.

Waist height​

Controls the height of the waist, 100% = waist height, 0% = hip height

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6%
  • Minimum: -15%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the height of the waist, where:

  • 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
  • 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

Waistband width​

The width of the waistband

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 6%

Controls the width of the waistband.

Back pockets​

Back pocket asymmetry​

Controls the shape of the back pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the shape of the back pocket. At 0%, the back pocket will be symmetrical.

Fly​

Fly curve​

Controls the curvature of the fly J-seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 72%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 100%

This controls the curvature of the fly’s J-seam.

Fly length​

Controls the length of the fly

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the length of the fly.

Fly width​

Controls how far the J-seam of offset from the fly edge

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls how far the fly’s J-seam is offset from the fly edge.

Front pockets​

Pocket bag slant​

Controls the slant of the pocket bag

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -30%
  • Maximum: 30%

Pocket bag width​

Controls the width of the pocket bag

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 90%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 100%

Yoke​

Yoke angle​

Controls the angle of the virtual yoke dart

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 8.66°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 15°

Yoke balance​

Shifts the height of the yoke in- or outwards

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 180%

Yoke height​

Controls the height of the yoke

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 75%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 85%

Yoke horizontal placement​

Controls the horizontal placement of the yoke

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 48%
  • Maximum: 62%

Advanced​

Cross seam angle​

Controls the angle of the cross seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of cross seam curve.

  • 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

Cross seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the cross seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 85%

Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Start of the cross seam curve​

Controls how far into the cross seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the start of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Crotch seam angle​

Controls the angle of the crotch seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 25°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 35°

Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.

  • 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

Crotch seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Grainline position​

Controls the horizontal position of the leg relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the position of the grainline.

You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better for your body.

Leg balance​

Controls the ratio between front and back panel of the leg

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 57.5%
  • Minimum: 52.5%
  • Maximum: 62.5%

Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.

The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by how much.

tip

Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower. This makes the wearer look more skinny.

This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can’t find womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).

Waist balance​

Controls the horizontal position of the waist relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 90%

Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.

It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days. Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being slimmer.

This option allows you to control this balance.